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ELECTRONICS
Wall Ovens and Ranges
Diagnostic Test Manual
Table of Contents
ERC Quick Test.................................................................................3
Voltage Check Points ........................................................................4
Diagnostics
No Clock Display........................................................................5
No Bake....................................................................................6
No Broil.................................................................................... 7
No Heat on Pure Convection ......................................................8
Oven Light (Low Voltage Halogen)...................................................... 9
Door Latch ..............................................................................10
Failure Codes F-7/F-8.................................................................11
Cooling and Convection Fan......................................................12
Light 120 V Circuit .................................................................. 13
No Bake Broil (ERG, EGR, PGR)................................................ 14
No Broil 36" Cell ..................................................................... 15
Lower Oven / No Bake...............................................................16
Lower Oven ERC Harness......................................................... 17
Membrane Test.................................................................................18
19
Cycle Charts
Electric Ovens and Ranges ...................................................... 20
Gas Ranges................ . .......................................................... 24
Dual Fuel Ranges .....................................................................27
(including the small cell of the ERD48)
ERC Quick Test
The process requires two people. To access the program, one person should stand at the oven, while
the other is located at the circuit breaker. The person at the circuit breaker turns off the breaker and
then the person at the oven depresses and holds the cooktime keypad. The person at the circuit
breaker then turns the breaker back on. The display will show the 4-character identification code of the
ERC. Example (1180)
You have 30 seconds between each test mode.
Note: if unit shows time of day start procedure over again.
Test 1
Push and hold convection bake
Bake element and convection fan activate.
Test 2
Push and hold Standard Bake
Bake element activate.
Test 3
Push and hold Pure Convection
Convection fan and convection element activate.
Test 4
Push and hold broil
Broil element activate. (on gas units - ignitor will activate.)
Test 5
Push and hold convection broil (select models)
Broil element and convection fan activate.
Test 6
Momentary push timer 2
Audible tone will sound.
Test 7
Push and hold stop time
Cooling fan activate.
Test 8
Momentary push clock
All LEDs will light up. Push + or - key pad. LEDs wil display numbers
Example: 1111, 2222, 3333, 4444 etc.
Test 9
Last test door open, push and hold cook time for 10 seconds
Self clean latch motor activate. Door latch will complete one cycle.
The test will end and ERC will display the time of day.
NOTE:
Complete all tests within 30 seconds - otherwise you will see a failure code (F-0: Stuck key pad) dis-
played on the ERC.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 3
OUTPUT VOLTAGE CHECK POINTS
ON ERC/CLOCK CONTROL
All Ranges And Wall Ovens
When programming the oven into a cooking cycle, you first select the desired mode on the
touch membrane. Pressing this key sends a message to the ERC/Clock control, which in
turn triggers 24 Volts DC to be sent to the main relay board through the connective har-
ness. The desired relay (for example, Pure Convection) closes and distributes power to the
desired components. In order to correctly diagnose this sequence you need a volt meter
set on DC voltage. Drop the Bezel/Control panel down thus exposing the ERC/Clock and
related wiring. Dropping the control panel down will expose the back side of the ERC/Clock
control and main wiring harness. The connective harness will have 16 pins. Using a voltme-
ter take the test leads and insert into the backside of the main wiring harness
To take a voltage reading using the ERC connection chart below:
1. Set the voltage meter to DC voltage
2. Insert the test lead into the backside of the main harness
(plugged into the backside of the ERC control.)
For example: if bake isn't working:
a) Insert the test leads into connections (2-5)
b) Program the unit into the bake cycle
The meter should read 22-24 Volts DC
TEST POINT 1
TEST POINT 16
ERC CONNECTOR
w
B et een P i s
n a
R el y S h o u l R ea
d d
1-3 D BL 24 V OLTS
2-5 BAKE 24 V OLTS
2-6 B ROIL 24 V OLTS
C ONV E C TION
2-7 24 V OLTS
E LE ME NT
C ONV E C TION
2-9 24 V OLTS
FA N
D OOR MOTOR
1-11 24 V OLTS
(LATC H MOTOR)
1-13 C OOLING FA N 24 V OLTS
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 4
NO CLOCK DISPLAY
All Ranges And Wall Ovens
**Prior to going out on this call - make sure that the customer has re-set the circuit breaker.
1. Check incoming voltage. Appliances must have 240 volts with a neutral.
2. Check voltage at main relay board at L1 and N just in front of the low voltage
transformer. Should read 120 volts. Refer to picture for voltage test points.
L1 test point
3. If you do not have the voltage at L1 and N check wires and connections at
terminal block.
4. If you have 120 volts at L1 and N then check voltage at main ERC harness
connection coming off ERC clock control. Refer to picture for test points 14
and 15. Should have 22-24 volts AC input to ERC/clock control.
1
5. If you do not have 22-24 volts AC, suspect the main relay board or main
harness.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 5
NO BAKE
All Ranges And Wall Ovens
1. Check the incoming voltage to the unit. There should be 240 volts with a neutral.
2. Check power at the Dbl (double line relay) from (Com) to neutral. There should be 120 volts
incoming to the Dbl. Refer to picture for testpoints. If voltage is ok, move to step 3.
3. Program the unit into a bake cycle. Check voltage across Dbl (double line relay) (N.O. side)
to BA relay for 240 volts. Refer to picture for test points. If no voltage replace relay board. If
you have 240 volts go to step 4.
4. Check the HTC (high temp cutout) for open circuit. HTC is a NC switch. The HTC is located
by the latch assembly and has a re-settable switch. (see picture)
Reset Button
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 6
NO BROIL
All Electric/Dual-Fuel Ranges And Wall Ovens
1. Check the incoming voltage to the unit. There should be 240 volts with a neutral.
2. Check power at the Dbl (double line relay) from (Com) to neutral. There should be 120
volts incoming to the Dbl. Refer to picture for testpoints. If voltage is ok, move to step 3.
3. Program the unit into a broil cycle. Check voltage across the DBL (double line relay) N.O.
output side and BR relay (Broil relay) For 240 Volts. Refer to picture for test points.
If you have voltage present go to step 4.
If you do not have voltage replace relay board.
4. Check the HTC (high temp cutout) for open circuit. HTC is a NC switch. The HTC is
located next to the latch assembly and has a re-settable switch. (see picture)
Re-set Button
There is also a user programmable option to set the cooling fan off temperature to
200, 300, 400 or 450 degrees.
To change the temperature:
1. Touch Broil pad - enter temp as 500 degrees or higher.
2. Push and hold Broil pad for 5 seconds - COOL will show in the ERC display
3. Adjust fan shut off temp with the +/- pad. (000 = 300 degrees, all other settings will
display temp).
4. To exit the mode - press cancel.
Recommended factory setting is 300 degrees
This will only work on EC, MC and PC ovens
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 7
PURE CONVECTION - NO HEAT
Wallovens, Dual Fuel and Electric Ranges
1. Check the incoming voltage to the unit. There should be 240 volts with a neutral.
2. Program the unit into pure convection. Check power at the Dbl (double line relay) from
(Com) to neutral. There should be 120 volts incoming to the Dbl. Refer to picture for
test points. If voltage is ok, move to step 3.
3. Check voltage across the DBL (double line relay) NO output side and the CVL (convection
element relay)
for 240 volts. Refer to picture for test points. )
If you have voltage present move to step 4
If you do not have voltage replace relay board.
Double line relay
Convection Element
Relay
4. Check the HTC (high temp cutout) for open circuit. HTC is a NC switch. HTC is located by
the latch assembly and has a re-settable switch. (see picture)
Re-set Button
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 8
HALOGEN OVEN LIGHTS
Electric and Dual Fuel Ranges, Wall Ovens
1. Check input voltage to the light transformer at the primary side across terminal 1 and 5.
Should read 240 volts. (see picture) If you do not have 240 volts across 1 and 5, check
wiring back to the terminal block. If there is 240 volts present at 1 and 5 go to step 2.
(see picture)
1= 0V 1 5 5=240V
Step 1
2. Check voltage at the light transformer on the secondary side across terminal 6 and 8.
Should read 12 volts. If you do not have 12 volts present at terminal 6 and 8 replace light
transformer.
If you do have voltage present go to step 3.
6 to 8 = 12 VAC
8 to 10 = 12 VAC
6 to 10 = 24 VAC
6 10
8
Step 2
3. Check voltage from the main relay board at terminal N which is to the left of OL1 relay.
Should have 12 volts present at N all the time. If you do not have 12volts present re-check
steps 1 and 2 or replace light transformer. If you do not have 12 volts present go to step 4.
(see picture)
N
Step 3
4. Check voltage at OL1 on main relay board. Should have 12 volts present after OL1
relay closes. If you do not have voltage present recheck steps 1-3 or replace relay
board. If you do have voltage present Check wiring to light socket and light bulb.
OL1
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 9
DOOR LATCH NOT RUNNING
All Models
1. Check voltage at L2 just to the left of the DRLK relay. (door lock relay) you should have
120V present. See picture for test points.
If there is no voltage present, check wiring from L2 back to terminal block. If you have
voltage at L2 go to step 3
2. Program oven into self-clean cycle.
3. Check voltage from the DRLK (door lock relay) to neutral. See picture for
test points. Should have 120 Volts. If no voltage is present replace relay
board. If voltage is present check wiring to door latch assembly. If ok replace
door latch assy.
4. If you do not have 120VAC, check for (+ or -) 24V DC at molex connector on the
relay board. Pins 1 and 9 on relay board should read 24V DC (+or-); if not then replace
the relay board.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 10
F-7, F-8
Door Failure Codes
For Single Wall Ovens and Ranges
Latch Switch - Phase Switch NC
Lock Switch NC
If the oven is in the Self Clean cycle, and after a short period of time the latch locks and the Self Clean display
reverts back to the time of day check the latch switches on the latch assembly for an open latch switch or an
,
open wire coming off of the latch switches to the back of the erc control. You should also check to be sure
that the latch is wired correctly
.
If oven is programmed into a Self Clean cycle and you get the word DOOR in the clock display:
1) Check for DC voltage out of the back of the ERC control at the 8 pin connector at J4. There are 5 colored
wires in the 8 pin connector - they are (1-yellow, 1-orange, 1-brown, 2-white.) Check for power at the
brown wire - there should be 22-24 volts dc. If no voltage is present at the brown wire; check the wiring
to ground and the latch switches for a grounded wire or miswired switches.
2) Check voltage at J4 - the 8 pin connector coming of f the back of the ERC clock control should read
22-24 volts dc at all times. the voltage feeds the latch switches. If no voltage is present out of the
This
ERC (clock control), replace the ERC.
3) Check the alignment of the door latch with the outer/inner door liner when it locks. It may not allow the
door latch to lock properly and cause the door switches to activate properly
.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 11
F-7, F-8
Door Failure Codes
Single Oven
Wall Ovens and Ranges
2 6
3 5 Single Oven
1 - Com Brown Wire
2 - N/C Yellow Wire
1 4 3 - N/O
4 - N/C Orange Wire
5 - N/O
6 - Com Double Brown Wire
2
Double Oven
6 Double Oven
1 - Com Brown Wire
5 2 - N/C Yellow Wire
3
3 - N/O
4 - N/C Orange Wire
1 5 - N/O
6 - Com Double Brown Wire
4
Lower Oven
2 8 Lower Oven
1 - N/C Violet wire
2 - N/C Yellow wire
3 3 - N/O Black or Yellow wire
4 - N/C Orange Wire
1 5 5 - Empty
6 - Com Brown Wire
4
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 12
NO COOLING FAN
All Ranges And Wall Ovens
1. Program unit into a cooking cycle. The cooling fan should come on right away. **
If cooling fan doesn't come on, check voltage at CVF or CLF relay (cooling fan relay)
side to neutral. Should read 120 VAC. If voltage is not present replace main relay
board. If voltage is present check for open wires going to cooling fan. If wiring ok,
replace cooling fan motor assembly.
**Note: On all models except for the PGR and RSG the cooling fan turns on at an
oven temp of 180 to 230 degrees
CVF or CLF NEUTRAL
NO CONVECTION FAN
All Models
1. Program the oven into convection bake.
2. Check voltage at L2 just to the left of the CV (convection relay), should have 120 volts.
See picture. If no voltage check wiring back to the terminal block. If you have voltage
present at L2. Go to step 3.
3. Check voltage out of the CV (convection relay) for 120 volts. See picture for test points. If
no power out of CV relay replace relay board. If there is voltgage present check wiring,
convection motor and connections.
L2 CV
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 13
LIGHT NOT WORKING
PGR, RSD, RSE 120V Light Circuit
1. Check voltage for light circuit at main relay board at terminal N, just to the left of OL1
(oven light relay one) Should have a constant 120 volts. (see picture) If no voltage
there check wiring back to terminal block. If you do have voltage present go to step 2.
N OL1
2. Activate the light circuit by pressing the touch pad and listen for the OL1 relay to close
then check for 120 volts at OL1. (see picture) if no voltage present replace relay
board. If the OL1 (oven light relay 1) doesn't close or you don't hear relay close go to
step 3.
3. If OL1 relay doesn't close you need to check the membrane touch pad (refer to
membrane test points in this manual) You will also need to check the small
ribbon connection that is coming off of the touch membrane to the main relay board for
proper connection. Step 4 (see picture)
4. You can bypass the membrane touchpad to activate the light circuit. Remove the small
ribbon connection that is coming off the touchpad to the main relay board. Take a
jumper wire or a pocket screw driver and jump across pins one and two. (see picture)
If OL1 relay closed the problem is in the touch pad. If OL1 relay doesn't close then the
problem is in the main relay board.
Count from the
right to the left:
start with one
Light Ribbon Connection
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 14
NO BAKE/BROIL
EGR, ERG, PGR
Here is a list of functional parts that should be working for the bake/broil to light..
Main Relay Board
Cooling blower
Air switch (sail switch)
Dual gas valve
Bake Igniter
All of these elements must be working in order for the bake or broil burner to function.
NO BAKE
1. Check incoming line voltage to the DBL (double line relay) NO side and neutral.
Should have 120 VAC. If no voltage present trace wiring back to terminal block. If
voltage is present go to step 2.
2. Program the unit into Bake or Broil.
Check voltage at the DBL (double line relay) com side to neutral. Should read 120
VAC. If no voltage present replace main relay board. If voltage is present then check
if cooling fan is running. If cooling fan is not running check wiring and cooling fan
motor. If cooling fan is running then check the air switch/sail switch that is mounted to
the cooling fan assy. You must remove cooling fan to gain access to air switch/sail
switch.
BR Broil Relay
BA Bake Relay
**Note: The cooling fan should turn on immediately when any cooking cycle is programmed.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 15
Here is a list of functional parts that should be working for the bake/broil to light..
Note: ERG30's had a sail switch prior to SN KC1230128. On 6-7-01 the sail switch
Main Relay Board was replaced with an automatic reset switch.
Cooling blower PGR30's unit with a serial level KB0000000 and KA0000000 had a sail switch - those
Air switch (sail switch) with a KC0000000 and above have an automatic limit switch.
Dual gas valve
Bake Igniter
All of these elements must be working in order for the bake or broil burner to function.
NO BAKE
1. Check incoming line voltage to the DBL (double line relay) NO side and neutral.
Should have 120 VAC. If no voltage present trace wiring back to terminal block. If
voltage is present go to step 2.
Common
NO
2. Program the unit into Bake or Broil.
Check voltage at the DBL (double line relay) com side to neutral. Should read 120
VAC. If no voltage present replace main relay board. If voltage is present then check
if cooling fan is running. If cooling fan is not running check wiring and cooling fan
motor.If cooling fan is running then check the air switch/sail switch that is mounted to
the cooling fan assy. You must remove cooling fan to gain access to air switch/sail
3. The air switch/sail switch is a NO switch you should have 120 VAC to that switch.
Take a voltage check from one side of the wire to neutral - it should read 120VAC.
120 Volts
Brown wire to broil igniter
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 16
NO BROIL 36" Cell
ERD30, 36, 48
1. Program unit into the broil cycle.
Take an amp reading at the broiler igniter. You should have 3.1 to 3.3 amps. Or take a voltage
reading at the main relay board. At the main relay board take a voltage check from the BR
(broil relay) to neutral should read 120 volts AC. If no voltage out of the BR relay - replace
relay board. If you have voltage out of the relay board check the HTC (High temp cutout) to
see if the HTC has tripped.
(Remember the broil HTC has the white wire hook to it. You can do this by pushing down
on the reset button located in the center of the HTC. If the HTC won't reset or is open,
replace HTC. If the HTC is good, go to step 2.
2.
Dual Valve: The HTC (Hi temp cutout) feeds the neutral into the dual valve and the dual
valve feeds the neutral to the broil igniter. If the dual valve is bad, the broil igniter
won't be energized.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 17
LOWER OVEN / NO BAKE
ECS/ECD, MCS/MCD, PCS/PCD
1. Check the incoming voltage to the unit. There should be 240 volts with a neutral.
2. Check power at the Dbl (double line relay) from (Com) to neutral. There should be 120
volts incoming to the Dbl. Refer to picture for testpoints. If voltage is ok, move to step 3.
3. Program the unit into a bake cycle. Check voltage across Dbl (double line relay) (N.O.
side) to BA relay for 240 volts. Refer to picture for test points. If no voltage replace relay
board. If you have 240 volts go to step 4.
4. Check the HTC (high temp cutout) for open circuit. HTC is a NC switch. The HTC is
located by the latch assembly and has a re-settable switch. (see picture)
N.O. Connection BA Relay
Reset Button
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 18
DOUBLE WALL OVENS
Lower Oven ERC Harness
When the ERC/Clock Control is programmed into any cooking mode, the
ERC/Clock control sends 22-24 volts DC into the relay board to power that
function. For example: if the lower oven is programmed into a bake cycle,
the ERC Clock control would send 2DCV to the Lower Oven relay board to
close the bake relay. To set a volt meter to read DCV, insert the test leads
into the rear of the wire harness that plugged into the back of the ERC/
Clock control at J-6 pin wire location 10-3. Then program the lower oven
into bake. Voltage should be 22-24 VDC.
Other test points shown below:
Bake 10-3
Broil 10-2
Convection Element 10-4
Convection Fan 10-9
Latch Motor 10-1
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 19
This membrane chart shows the membrane touch circuit.
For example: pull the main connector off the ERC control and insert the test
leads into the connector at points 19-13. Press the bake function on the up-
per oven touch pad to show a closed circuit.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 20
All Electric Ovens and Ranges
Pure Convection
Refer to Main
Wiring Harness
for test points
2 & 7 Convection
Element
2 & 9 Convection
Motor
Use 16 Pt connection
side of ERC harness to test
Convection Bake
Test across 2 & 5 on main
wire harness - for Bake it
should read 22-24 VDC.
Test across 2 and 9 for
Convection Motor.
It should read 22-24 VDC
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 21
All Electric Ovens and Ranges
Cooling Fan
Cooling Fan
1&3
Cooling Fan
180-225
Refer to the 16
pin side of the
ERC wire
harness to test
Light Circuit
Light Circuit
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 22
All Electric Ovens and Ranges
Self Clean
Check output DCV at the 16
pin connector side of the
ERC/Clock harness.
2 & 5 bake = 22-24 VDC
2 & 6 Broil = 22-24 VDC
1 & 11 Latch Motor = 22-
24VDC
1 & 13 Cooling Fan = 22-24
VDC
Check across Test Points
Broil
Test points on
harness 16 pin side.
Set meter to VDC. CK
voltage across 2 & 6.
Should read 22-24
VDC in broil cycle.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 23
All Electric Ovens and Ranges
Bake
Bake 2 & 5
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 24
Gas Ranges
Bake
Convection
Bake
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 25
Gas Ranges
Self-Clean
Check across 2
and 5 for bake
from the 16 pt
connection of the
main wire
harness for 22-24
VDC and 1 and 11
for the cooling
fan.
Preheat
Check across 2 and 5 for
22-24 VDC from the 16 pin
connection of the main
wire harness of the ERC for
the bake coil.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 26
Gas Ranges
Broil
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 27
Dual Fuel Ranges
Broil
Convection
Bake
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 28
Dual Fuel Ranges
Light Circuit 36" Oven
Preheat/ Bake 36" Oven
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 29
Dual Fuel Ranges
Light Circuit
Pure Convection
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 30
Dual Fuel Ranges
Self Clean 36" Cell
Note:
Cooling Fan turn on temp
180-220 degrees
Self Clean 18" Cell
Note:
Cooling fan turns on between
180 and 220 degrees
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 31
Dual Fuel Ranges
Bake 18" Cell
Note:
Cooling fan turns on between
180 and 220 degrees.
Self Clean 18" Cell
Note:
Cooling fan turns on between
180 and 220 degrees
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 32
Dacor recommended cycle selections and performance tips.
We would like to take a minute to explain the performance advantage of our Standard Bake,
Convection Bake and Pure Convection cycles. We hope that this information will make cycle
selection easier to understand. We will also explore performance characteristics, temperature
testing techniques, as well as the importance of preheat and how it effects your overall baking/
roasting results.
The Fundamentals
What is convection?
Convection can be defined as air movement.
Why do convection ovens bake faster?
Dacor convection ovens bake faster because the convection fan system removes the thin layer of
cool air that surrounds most refrigerated food products. Removing this layer allows the heat in the
oven to efficiently penetrate the food. This speeds the cooking process.
Are convection ovens more accurate?
They can be, but most convection ovens are designed to allow multi rack baking and speed the
cooking process. Thermally, many ovens actually perform worse when the convection system is
applied because the air movement disturbs the natural balance inside the oven. Dacor, however,
has manufactured convection ovens since 1987 and we have our systems perfectly balanced to
compensate for this air movement.
All Dacor ranges and wall ovens feature the convection option.
Dual fuel ranges and all electric wall ovens share three bake modes; Standard Bake,
Convection Bake and Pure Convection.
Gas models have a choice of two, Standard Bake and Convection Bake. Pure Convection
adding rear heat is not an option for gas ranges.
Although we promote the use of all three bake modes, in most circumstances the Pure Convection
cycle will always produce the most accurate temperatures. The following information will help you
determine which cycle is best for you and your customers.
Back to the Basics Page 33
Basic terminology:
Baking: refers to items baked on flat sheets or spring form pans such as cakes, cookies,
pastries and other delicate items. Higher oil, butter or sugar content requires an extremely
accurate oven and exact timing for the best results. Unlike roasting and braising, true
baking is more exacting. Recipes have to be carefully followed and there is little room for
"experimentation".
Dehydrating: uses very low temperatures of less than 150F and is designed to remove
moisture slowly from fruits, vegetables and meat without actually "cooking" it.
Roasting: refers to meats placed uncovered into a preheated oven and seared until done.
Dense cuts of meat do not require extreme accuracy or accurate timing but this method
produces an even result because the heat penetrates all sides of the meat at the same
time. Beef and pork roasts, tenderloins and steaks and all types of poultry and vegetables
can be roasted covered or uncovered with great results.
Oven Braising: braising (simmering) is usually preferred for tougher, less expensive cuts
of meat that benefit from a longer cooking period. Generally reserved for lower quality cuts,
some feel braised meats, slowly cooked, offer the finest texture and are the most flavorful.
Braising uses a covered pan to stop evaporation and typically involves immersing the meat,
or vegetables, in wine or stock both to break down the meat and add flavor. Beef brisket,
large tough roasts, short ribs and other fatty, sinewy cuts will benefit from low temperature,
long term braising. The average temperature used in braising ranges from 250F to 300F.
and this method can take from two to seven hours. In most cases, the lower and slower
you roast - the better your results will be.
Searing: Can be performed either in the oven or on the cooktop. Usually associated
with applying high temperatures to the outside of meat to completely seal / caramelize the
outside layer against moisture loss when cooking.
The Modes
Standard Bake - bottom heat only
We recommend selecting this mode when using a covered dish, roasting bags or when long
term braising meats or vegetables. Items baked in a water bath such as cheesecakes, custards
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